Game, Set & Match
04 10 2016
The insider's guide to aceing the shades to wear this season. Pick and choose to suit yourself,advises fashion curator Nishant Fatima.
If ever there is a season to prove that men can wear colour, it is this. Autumn Winter 2016 is awash in brights and darks, in jewel tones and even candy hues. What is even more fresh than the minty greens served up are the combinations the designers propose. What should you wear your whites with? What about black, grey and blue? How will you take them into the next season? The answers are here, collated from all the men’s shows in New York, London, Paris and Milan. Read on for a quick and easy guide to up your game on the sartorial field and go for gold.
Arvind’s Autumn Winter Collection 2016 has blues and shades of grey - the always in-trend colours. But there’s a lot else. Bright yellows, lilacs, shades of pink and orange, prints, checks and more.
1. Monochrome Brights
What’s a monochrome doing in an article on colour combinations? Well, it’s one way to match colour. With the same colour. On repeat. What on earth does that mean? It’s simple. Pick one unexpected hue - gold, lavender, wine, pink, teal. No, white, black, grey and navy do not count. Wear it on your shirt, trousers and jacket. A coat too if the occasion arises. Or since you are in India, a churidar-kurta-jacket/bandi. Hues can vary in percentages. So pick the achkan/bandi in a colour of your choice and work around that.
2. Rust and Copper
The season’s must-have tones came from the warm orangey part of the palette. Reimagined from the leather and brown that dominated the 70s - a decade that has been back in fashion for the past few years - rust and copper appeared on runways as the new neutrals. There were plenty of suits, Dior Homme did a line, Topman Design showed a pyjama take while Kenzo added accents of blue. In India, orange popped up in the Indian line of Arvind to light up the season of festivities. Olives and golds showed up as accompaniments too. So rugged and yet so rich. Can there be a better combination?
3. Red and Black
It’s a colour classic. Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons and Balmain all thought so when they sent down models in red Nehru jackets and black trousers, or red ponchos and skinny inky jeans, or even red and black tartan trousers with a black shirt and tuxedo jacket. Don’t imagine any muted red either - no safe maroons or toned down hues. This is a traffic stopping red we’re talking about. It’s a red that will make you the centre of attention, even if you’re only wearing it as a pocket square! Are you ready for it?
4. Sky Blue, Powder Blue
It’s the original wild colour in the male universe, the playing version of it - sky blue. It’s blue, so not scary, but it’s light, so major marks for daring. It’s not surprising that it’s a hit. After all, Serenity, a tone of this, was the Pantone colour of the year. And this Autumn, it’s just as popular on the womenswear ramps. How to wear it now? This season, it’s all about mixing shades from the colour. Layer tones of sky, and powder blue and add either a hint of crisp white or take it to evening with black (but invert the traditional pairing and wear a black shirt with blue trousers). Keep it very cool, almost space age.
5. Silver and White
Think of it as foiling or futuristic, but silver was almost ubiquitous on runways. It appeared as hoodies and puff jackets, as pants, of course. Calvin Klein foiled jeans, Versace went full on metallic. The effect to try for is icy. Clinical. Space camp. But it’s not necessarily alienating. Remember Saif Ali Khan in Dil Chahta Hai dancing in silver pants? Just add a white T-shirt and you’re on-trend. See, not so intimidating.
6. Pinks, Lilacs with Greys, Browns
Ok, let’s tackle the elephant in the room. Pink or shades close to it. Yes, real men do wear these shades and if the designers have their way, they’re going to wear a lot of such hues this season. Pink and lilac appeared in varied hues on the runway including blush, salmon, coral and fuchsia. It was there as solid colour coats, shirts, pants, even lapels, or patterned on shirts. The way its appeal translated to the manly men? By pairing it with classic restrained shades. Dark greys, chocolate browns or greige (that neutral combination of grey and brown) as you see in the Arvind ensemble here.
7. Brown and Blue
Men will be men and so neither brown nor blue will ever go out of style. Globally, and on Indian ramps, brands such as Arvind revelled in the favourites. There was a lot of both colours on display; even stonewashed blue denims from the 80s and brown jackets or shirts in the lighter shades you haven’t seen since the 90s.